Monday, July 30, 2012

Monday 30 July 2012

     Today was my last day in Bamberg this summer.  I did not accomplish too much.  One side trip to Erlangen and a visit to the special exhibit up at the Dom museum.  But I enjoyed being here  more than last year.  I am sure it is because of the location of the apartment.  Here, I am across the street from Bolero, 2 blocks from Klosterbrau and across a small square from the Italian restaurant.  It made it very convenient and nice to be able to just go across the street for tapas or to go up the street for a couple beers.  If I return to Bamberg I will definitely stay here again.
     Tommorrow I take the train to Nurnberg, and change for Passau.  The whole thing should take about 2 hours.  I have 15 minutes to change trains in Nurnberg, which is plenty of time as long as the train out of here is not late.  I found my hotel in Passau on a map and it is centrally located.  I am hoping for nice weather to be able to get out and enjoy this city I have never visited before.  Unlike Leipzig last year where it rained every day and I didn't get a chance to really "see" the city.

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Sunday 29 July 2012

   We have been having great weather here in Bamberg and I have been out and about just enjoying the city.  I ate lunch across the street at Bolero.  I had 3 of their tapas - chicken wings, serrano ham, choizo sausage. All were good and with 2 beers it made a great lunch.  I ate at an Italian place on Dominicanner strasse last night.  I don't remember the name.  It was good but most of all I like the set up there.  There is only in-door dining, which is weird for Germany, but they had the windows and doors open, which is also weird for Germany.  I had veal saltimbuco, which is veal with ham in a very light sauce.  It came with a small salad and potatoe.  I drank a proseco and aperol to start  and then a half-liter Lambrusco with dinner.  It all cost me 25e.
     I have to mention one more thing about Bamberg.  That is, do not expect to sleep a lot while you are here.  One of the big churches here rings its bells all day, every day.  They start at 7:00 am and do not stop until 10:00 pm.  They ring every hour and every quarter hour and often at times in between.  Yesterday they began ringing at 3:40 pm???  They do not play a tune or anything, they just ring.  It is about 5 bells all ringing at once and it is just noise.  Sometimes it is quick but other times, like 7:00 am, it goes on for 3/4 minutes.  I don't know why they do it but they do.  So if you are here and you stay up late one night just know that you will be woken up at 7:00 am by the bells.

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Wednesday 25 July 2010

     Today was another beautiful day in Bamberg.  After I got up and ate, I decided to go on a day trip to Erlangen.  Another small German city that no one has ever heard of before.  I took the bus - 1.60e- to the Hauptbahnhof and purchased my ticket.  I paid twice as much as I needed to because I wasn't paying attention when I bought it.  I purchased a ticket for ANY train insted of just local trains.  Erlangen is only @20 minutes away and I only needed a local ticket.  Anyway, when I got there I made my way to Schloss Platz.  The old palace is now, and has been for a very long time, part of the University there.  Facing the palace, to the left is a restaurant called Sax.  I ate there.  I had a water, a half-liter keller beer and the most delicious beef gulasch ever.  It came with 6 pieces of bread and I ate every one of them, using them to sop up the incredible gravey.  It cost 13e.
     After the lunch, I walked down Haupt Strasse and went to the city museum.  It cost 4e and really was not worth it.  It didn't show anything so interesting.  So I left after going through it and went for a walk in the Schloss garden.  It was very well kept and very relaxing.  Then I stopped for a water and chocolate milkshake - 6e.  I left at 3:30 pm and bought the cheap ticket and took the local train home.  At the Erlangen train station, as I was buying my ticket, some man offered to drive me to Bamberg for 4e!  I said no and he came by and asked again and I said in a loud voice, "I'm not driving anywhere with you!".  Can you imagine?  4e wouldn't even pay for the gas to drive from Erlangen to Bamberg.  So, Erlangen is a very pretty, quiet city.  It is very nice to spend some time walking around there.  Maybe there is more to see than I did, but I really think that if someone went there for the day it would be best to take a walking tour and then just spend some time roaming around and stopping for somefood or a drink.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Sunday 22 July 2012

    Yesterday I left Weimar and traveled to Bamberg.  I was originally scheduled to travel to Jena-Gorschwitz, change trains, travel to Saalfeld, change trains and then travel to Bamberg.  But the train leaving Weimar was late in getting out, so when I arrived in Jena I had to go down the steps from platform 1, down the passageway and up the steps to platform 4.  The train was still there!  I pushed the button to open the door and the train took off!  So, I had to find a ticket machine and re-route myself.  I waited until 12:25, only about 20 min., and took a train to Litchtenfels and then a train to Bamberg.  I was only about 5 minutes late.  I'm just lucky that I speak German and have used the ticket machines many, many times before.  If someone had to do this without that info there might be some hassle.
    So now I am in Bamberg.  A UNESCO World Heritage City.  This is the second 10 night stay I am making and the third time I am here.  It really is a beautiful city.  Unlike Weimar, it is exactly what someone from the states would expect a small German city to look like.  My apartment this summer is on Juden Strasse.  It is right on the heart of the old city, therefore perfectly located.  Pane e Vino is a lovely little Italian restaurant and literally less than half a block.  Bolero, a spanisch restaurant, is across the street.  I have a tiny walk through kitchen, but it will function, a nice size living room, with disappointing cable selection, and a big enough bedroom.  The bedroom has 2 single beds that you can put together but it is not the same.  The bathroom is OK.  So far I am perfectly happy here.  And it is only 38e a night.  The landlords, Frau and Herr Lempetzeder, could not be nicer.
   Today I went for a walk about 10:00 am and bought myself a blueberry muffin and 4 big pretzels and came back and had coffee with the muffin and one of the pretzels.  Then I went up the hill to Dom Platz.  That is where the cathedral that makes Bamberg famous is located.  Also up there is the Dom Museum,  where I was going, and the Neues Residenz,  which is the palace in which the Prince-Bishops of Bamberg lived.  At the Dom Museum they are having a special exhibit on the Dom so I went.  It cost 6e to get in.  The most interesting stuff was the stuff related to Holy Roman Emperor Henry II and his wife.  They were the pair who endowed the cathedral in the first place.  They are buried in the cathedral.
    After being a tourist I came down the hill and went to Hofbrau.  This is a beer hall in the center of town on a corner.  I sat at one of the picnic tables outside and ate a Bratwurst Teller and drank 2 Hefewiessen beers.  The meal was 3 different sausages, grilled, sauerkraut mustard and a dumpling I have mentioned before, a kloss.  It was good and cost 16.50e.  Tonight it was a little cold out but I ate outside at Pane e Vino anyway.  I had a bowl of minestrone soup, ravioli stuffed with asparagas and a half liter of Lambrusco wine.  Also a small water.  All for 23.20e.  They have been having the canal festival the last two days so a walked through that and got back about 8:45 pm.

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Wednesday 18 July 2012

     Another rainy day in Weimar.  I think that it has rained everyday for 2 weeks.  On Monday I did get around town and take some pictures of the places I frequent on my new digital camera.  Yesterday I went to Muellers and bought an Ina Muller CD.  I then went to Schillar's Kaufhaus to see if they had any DVDs but they do not.  When I left Schiller's I hear a beep but just kept going never thinking it was I who beeped.  But I did.  A woman came running down the street asking if I heard the "peep".  I said yes I heard it but did not think I did it.  Turns out my new CD from the other store had a scan tag on it and it caused the door to "peep".  That was it.  I had a doner at home for lunch and ended up taking a nap while the tennis match from Stuttgart was on TV.
     For dinner I decided to go to "El Burrito".  Again it is one of those places that I have walked past many times before but had never eaten at until now.  It is in the same alley as Trattoria, but on the other side.  It has a small terrace out front with only about 7/8 tables for 4.  Usually they are filled.  Last night however, because of the terrible weather I am sure, they were empty.  So I went inside.  They have a lot of room in there.  Immediately on the left, behind the outdoor terrace, is the smoking room so if you smoke you can sit in there.  Straight ahead is a bar, with actual stools at it, and next to that a large main dining room.  That is where I sat and I was alone.  I had a very large Campari soda, beef fajitas, 2 large beers and a cup of coffee, all for 27e.  The fajitas were very good but different from what you get in the US.  I did get 3 very large tortillas.  In a bowl came pieces of well cooked beef in a sauce, with both red and hot peppers.  This was somewhat spicy but I like that.  On a plate I got cut up tomatos, shredded lettuce and shredded chedder cheese.  I also received a small bowl of salsa and a small bowl of a white sauce with some herbs in it.  There was plenty and it was all very good.  The young woman who waited on me was pleasant and atentive enough.  I would go back.
     On Saturday I leave for 10 nights in Bamberg.  I walked up to the train station yesterday and bought my ticket.  I must change trains twice, once in Jena-Goschwitz and then again in Saalfeld.  There was no other way.  But I did get the sale price and insted of 42e it cost me 29e.  The trip should take about 2 hours and 24 minutes.

Friday, July 13, 2012

Friday 13 July 2012

     It has been a rainy few days in Weimar.  Not much to do in this wheather.  I have gone for several long walks and today I went to the Weimar Atrium which is their version of a mall.  I wanted to buy a sweater or sweatshirt to wear in the cold wheather.  I found a beige pullover for 12e.  After I went to Shakespeare for lunch. 
     This is an interesting place.  The set up is very similar to an American bar/restaurant.  The bar itself actually has barstools, which is unusual,  but I have never seen anyone sit there.  The food is basic German.  I had a bratwurst with mashed potatos and hot sauerkraut.  I also had 2 beers and paid 15e.  This place also has a theater in the basement.  It is called Galli Theater.  The restaurant personel know nothing about the theater but you have to go through the restaurant to get to the theater and you can buy a drink from the bar in the restaurant and take it downstairs with you if you want.  I went to this theater once in summer 2010.  The show was "The Frog Prince", naturally in German.  It was a one man show and it was good.  But since then the program for the theater has not changed.  They are still offering the same shows they were offering 2 year ago.  So it makes a nice night out and is not expensive but I think it is a one shot deal.  It is on Windischestrasse.
     Tonight I went to Erbenhof for dinner.  I have walked past this place I don't know how  many times but I have never eaten here before.  I read a review on tripadvisor and decided to go.  If I have not said it before, Tripadvisor is a great site.  For dinner I had onion soup and veal schnitzel with potato salad.  I had 2 beers and an obstler.  An obstler is an after-dinner brandy made from fruit, hence the name.   I n the south of Germany they are often homemade.  All this cost me 31.40e.  It was good and the service was good and they did seem to not care how long I stayed.  There were people there who were not eating but just having a drink.  I enjoyed it and would recommend it.  It is on Frauentor platz.
    In the same platz was this years weingut.  This is when some vineyards set up booths and a band plays and people sit around drinking wine from the different vineyards.  It was very crowded tonight so I did not stay.  But in the past I have and it is fun.  You can try the wines for 2e and they pour you a very nice glass.  You can buy a bottle to drink there at one of the tables or you can buy a bottle, or 2 or 3, to take home.  If you buy it to go it is really cheap.  But even to buy and drink there is basically minimal.  Today was night 2 and I am sure they will be there tommorrow so maybe I will go back a little earlier and have a few with the locals.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

10 July 2012, Weimar

     Last night I ate at Kostritzer for the first time,  in Weimar.  It was good.  Basic German food, good beer and all for a good price.  I had a cucumber salad, which was hugh, and a pork roast braised in dark beer that was delicious.  The pork came with sauerkraut and 2 kloss.  A kloss is a middle German "dumpling".  It is  pureed potatoes that are formed into a ball and then I think they are boiled.  They don't have much taste but the people here  are crazly for them and all the restaurants advertise them.  I drank 2 dark beers, that they call Schwartzbiere here and it all cost me 21,40 e.  Not bad.
     Today I took the train to Naumburg.  It cost 11e each way.  Naumburg is famous, if you can call it famous, for it's cathedral.  I only learned about it last year because they had a special exhibit there and it was advertised all over so I went.  In the cathedral in one of the chapels are statues of the sponsers of the cathdral from the Middle ages.  What makes them remarkable is that they are very animated portraits which is unusual for that time.  If you have time and have never been there they are worth seeing.  But get an audio guide or you may not know what is going on since it is not a museum and there are not explanitory signs.
    If you go, from the train station you want to go to Markt first.  You can take a taxi for very little or you can take bus # 1 or 3 to the CityBusStop and then switch to bus #2 which stops right in the Markt. A bus ride costs 1.30e. The Markt is worth a look around and there are a few places you can eat there if you want.  There is a sign pointing you to the cathedral, Dom in German.  It is a very short walk.  Right in front of the Dom is a restaurant where you can have lunch.  It is very reasonable and serves German food.  I had a bratwurst with potatoes and sauerkraut and 2 beers for less that 15e.
     To get back to the Hauptbahnhof do not take the bus from Markt.  Go out of the square diagonally from where you enter returning from the Dom and just follow that street.  It will take you in a few minutes to the citybusstop and then just get on bus # 1 or 3.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Saturday July 7, 2012

     Today I did not do anything that exciting.  I ate and cleaned up and it rained.  I watched the Wimbledon Women's final and took a nap.  I did get myself together and get out to dinner.  Trattoria is the name of the restaurant.  It is on the left in the passage that you get to through the trees in Sophien Platz.  My problem with directions is that I always know how to get there but I never know the  names of the streets.  Anyway, I had a Salat Misto and the Penne alle ametriciano.  Very good and filling.  I had to bring some of the pasta home with me.  To drink I had a tafelwasser and a 1/2 liter of chianti.  It all cost 25.50e.  After I went to Theatre Platz Cafe.  I like to hang out there.  They don't care how long you stay.  I had 2 glasses of chianti and 2 waters - 10.50e. 
     These two places are two good choices in Weimar. The Trattoria is good for a basic pasta meal.  The Theatre Platz Cafe is a good place to hang out at anytime of the day.  The only other comment that I can make about hanging out in Weimar is that I don't think anyone speaks a lot of English.  No one ever speaks English to me.  I say this because in big cities like Berlin, as soon as someone notices that you are not a native German they begin to speak English to you.  This does not happen here.  My German is good but it is clear that German is not my native language.  Most Europeans think that I am a Belgian or Dutchman who speaks German.  I am willing to live with that.

Friday, July 6, 2012

Friday July 6, 2010

     Today was a the kind of day that I like to enjoy here in Weimar.  I got up about 9:00 am and made coffee and had a yogurt and a peach for breakfast.  Then I went to the store and bought an eleven -pack of Kostritzer dark beer for 6e.  And remember, real European beer comes in half-liter bottles.  So if you are drinking something in the US that is in a regular bottle, ie one-third of a liter, it is not from Europe but was brewed for America.  Anyway, I wanted to run today but I wasn't out of the house 5 minutes and it began to rain.  So I came back and watched some TV and did some wash and about 1:00 pm went to run in Park-an-Ilm.  It is so different running in Germany than in the US.  There is no humidity here,  (as a rule), so even if it is hot the paths in the park are shadded and not as hot.  Also here I run on gravel and at home I run on pavement.  I ran for 40 minutes and then came home to watch the Men's semi-finals at Wimbildon. 
     At 7:00 pm I went to eat at a Greek restaurant.  I found this place last summer when I went down a street I normally don't use on my way to the park.  It is called Apollon Taverna and is at the junction of Washington Strasse and Hoffman von Fallersleben Strasse and is well worth the effort to find.  It has outdoor seating in the front with about 11 round cafe tables and seating inside, where I have never sat.  I had a Bauer salad which was cucumbers, tomatos, onions, olives, delicious feta cheese and the  most delicious, salty yellow/green peppers that I have ever had.  For my Hauptgerisch, (main dish), I had a special  "plate" that had 2 big pieces each of beef filet and lamb filet, rice and mextasa(?) sauce.  To drink I had a small water and 2 Keller beers, one-half liter each naturally.  All this for 25.50 euro.  They also gave me a big ouzo shooter with my bill.  All Greek restaurants in Germany seem to do this.  It is called an Abschied Trink.  Which means departure drink.  It is a nice touch.

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Thursday June 5, 2012

Today I finished up the shopping that I did not finish yesterday.  I decided to cook bratwurst since I went to dinner last night.  I ate at Perle which is on the square with Goethe's house.  I ate a large salad and a baked penne, ham and broccoli dish.  Always order a salad in Germany because a lot of times vegetables do not come with the dinner.  I had a beer whike I was looking at the menu and with dinner I had two 0.25 red wines.  The food was good and it was nice to sit there and watch.  It all cost 25.10e.  After I walked around a little and then came home.  Once I got here I watched tv and of course had some more wine.
     After my shopping I went to the Vodaphone store to see about my phone.  In German it is called a Handi.  I told the man the situation and that I thought it needed a new sim card but the next thing I know he is on the phone to the store in Bamberg where I bought the thing last year.  They looked up my PUK number and when we put it in it worked!  All free.  So I put 15e on it  and was able to send a text to Ernest in London.  After I walked over to the Galli Theater to see what is playing.  It is basically the same program that it has been for the last 2 years!  That same man is still playing "The Frog Prince"!  So I took the pamphlet and walked over to American Bar down from Markt.  Guess what?  It is a coffeee house now but I stayed for a beer anyway.  Then I bought a cabbage and walked home.
     When I got here I watched the Women's Semi-Finals at Wimboldon on line.  Aggie Radwanska and Serena Williams won.   For dinner I cooked bratwurst, which I ate with mustard on a roll, and a large cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber salad.  I think I'm going to go for a walk now.

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Wed. 4 July 2012

Well, today I finally reached beliebte Weimar!  I have spent 6 nights in Berlin and 3 nights in Dresden.  Now I am here in the apartment I rent in Weimaar for 17 nights.  Fortunately the owner put in wifi and I was able to find a site that streams the Wimboldon matches live.
     Berlin was it's usual self.  I , of course, stayed at he Hilton.  I used Hilton Honors Points and got a free night.  So it worked out to be about $160 a night.  I've stayed at much more expensive places in Manhatten that were no where near as nice.  The wheather was for the most part good.  It rained just once and only briefly.  There was also only one really hot day.  Since I was with my friend Ernest, who had never been to Berlin or Dresden before,  we did all the basic things.  I showed him how to get a 3-day pass at the Altes Museen and at the same time make a reservation to see Nefertiti's head.  No one is ever on line there and then you just walk around the building to the Egyptian museen and go right in with your reservation ticket.  I always laugh when I see all those people waiting on line to buy tickets.
     We got to see Nefertiti's head and were the only people in the room.  It was great. Every picture you have seen of it does not do it justice and the way they have displayed it is great.  We also went into the Pergamon and did not have to wait on line because we already had our 3 day pass.  The Pergamon can be a little overwhelming but is a must see.  We also used our 3 day card to go to the Gemalde Galarie and see their wonderful collection of Old Masters.
      What I did not get to do this trip was good dining.  Ernest only wanted to eat regular German meals.  On the first night we found a little place on a corner just about a block in from Karl-Liebnitz Strasse and it was basic OK German food.  We ended up eating there a second time and that worked out because we stayed and watched Germany play Italy in the semi-finals of the European Soccer Championships.  They lost but it was exciting anyway.  That is the second time I was in Germany for a major soccer event.  Two years ago I was in Berlin when Germany was in the semi-finals of the World Cup.
   I did get to eat at my favorite spot Dolcini.  Of course we sat under the picture of Josephine Baker as I have done every time I have eaten there since I discovered it.  I love that place.  The food is good and the price is right and the people there are so nice.  Best of all there is never anyone else there, definitely no tourists.